Month: September 2017

Today was a more relaxed day.  (This implies that you can be relaxed when driving down the mountain which is something Debbie can only dream about).  They started out the  day at the Information Center.  For all you novice travelers, this is a Joyce must.  You always start at the Information Center.  Joyce should have a bubble above her head saying “Advanced User”.   She asks hard questions which make the more inexperienced information people’s eyes dart around and their hands sweat.  They often have to call someone over to help and then try to run away.  You always leave with maps and other stuff.  Debbie knows how to run around and pick up pamphlets.  Debbie’s real job is to carry stuff for Joyce and prompt for questions.  (It is like being a political aide to the governor that whispers into the governor’s ear  this is Jack and he has two children that are 9 and 11, his wife’s name is Sandra…you like Jack…. right before the governor greets Jack).

Off they went to the winding trail down to Montreux.  The intent was to visit old town and walk around the lake and surrounding area.  So, merrily off they go to Old Town following their GPS’s and then hit traffic.  Curving, inching looking for a place to park.  Hundreds of people out for the beautiful day.     Then the police blocked off the roads for the GPS targets.  Up they went in the car, everyone looking for a parking spot.  They even tried a parking garage only to have to leave as there were no parking places.   Someone even had the nerve to park at them.  At this point, Old Town was abandoned and they retreated to a much quieter part of the lake.

After they found a parking spot, Joyce ordered cheese fondue for lunch.  They enjoyed the afternoon, visited a church and strolled around part of the lake.

Debbie believes that driving around Switzerland is very stressful for her and the GPS ladies.  (Recalculating… Recalculating)
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After having conquered the German Alps and honing hiking skills, it was time to move on to Switzerland.  The group left early for a 6 hour drive to Villars, Switzerland.   They settled into the sports wagon for a long drive.  Joyce got them to Switzerland and then took a deserved nap in the back while Jerry finished the drive.

The last leg was the drive to Villars.  Here is an interesting fact: Villars-sur-Ollon is the home of the once well known Ollon–Villars hillclimb. Racing drivers from all over the world would come to participate in this internationally renowned event. Starting in the small town of Ollon, at the base of the mountain, and covering 8 km of mountain road, arriving at the top of the mountain, in Villars. The event was popular in the fifties and early sixties, before laws were passed banning motor racing in Switzerland.  Here is another interesting fact:  Debbie is a big chicken and kept her eyes covered for most of the drive up the mountain. They are lucky that she did not scream at each curve.  It was somewhat embarrassing for the other 3 when she got out and kissed the ground.

Since arriving in Switzerland, the group has learned several facts that they would like to share.

• A Swiss motorway vignette is required to use the national motorways. It’s a sticker you need to apply on the inside of the windshield of your car.  Austria and Switzerland require one.  Germany does not require but they charge for toilets.  (I just added that last part).
• Switzerland really cares about those vignettes.   The police stands at the border checking cars and there is a big fine.  Joyce took care of it and got stickers for all the countries.  The rest of the group were clueless and would have ended up in the slammer.
• Ollon-Villars has two of the top 5 most expensive boarding schools in the world.  Both over $100,000 a year.  You know that Les Cheap girls are in the wrong place.
• It cost $60.00 to ride the Glacier 3000 to the glacier one time.
• A hamburger costs $20.00 although we have seen $49 on at a remote location.
• Switzerland is part of the EU.
• Switzerland uses the Swiss Frank not Euros.  Exchange rate is about 1 to 1 for US
• Switzerland has 4 official languages – German, French, Italian and Romansh.  Debbie at least was shocked that everyone in Villars spoke French.
• Switzerland has lots of curvy roads that go up and down causing Debbie to put on pretend brakes
• Cows really do wear cowbells
• Lake Geneva is really big.  It is 45 miles long.
• The hiking signs are not very good and people can get lost.

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Joyce was gradually increasing hiking levels in preparation for today’s big hike.  (Debbie says that technically no one explained this to her that things were going to get harder.)  They were hiking to Hollentalklamm and into a bigger and more robust gorge.  The hike was scheduled to take  2 hours one way through the ravine.  After the ravine, the group could, at their discretion, proceed to the Hollentalangerhutte (hut) for “spectacular views”.

The parking lot had lots of serious hikers.  (Our group didn’t fall into serious yet).  The four got ready and and headed out.  Just to be safe, Joyce paid for 8 hours parking.  (An extraordinary thing for a Les Cheap girl to do).  They did notice that only one other hiking group headed in their direction and the four were soon passed.  The group had a great time playing around, stopping at the benches and walking under the shady trees.  The only problem was that the trail continued to add switchbacks going steadily up.  They hiked on dirt trails, gravel trails and  roads.   They hiked through streams and forests.  They hiked over bridges, rocks, and roots.  All going up, up, up and all without seeing any other hikers.  Two hours later with much relief, they came to the beginning of the ravine.

Now you are thinking, these are experienced gorge people, they have been through one ravine not a problem for them.  Here is how the brochure describes the gorge. “A 150 meters deep gorge, a lot of waterfalls, huge rocks, and boulders, a narrow path and small bridges and tunnels invite you to an adventure.  What the brochure doesn’t tell you is that you will have a wet adventure.  (Jennifer, good news for you when you borrow Mom’s hiking boots – they are waterproof tested).  Your clothes will get wet, your backpack will get wet, water will dump on you and you can shake it off like a dog.  It is wetter in the tunnels than out of the tunnels.  (but of course you won’t understand that for a while).  Some of the tunnels are long and pitch black.  It was similar to playing blindman’s bluff but wet.  (If you never played Blindman’s bluff ask someone older about the game)  It was amazing but a wet amazing.  The group stumbled out at the other end after about  1 hour.

They immediately plopped down on the trail to eat lunch.  Larry said it was kind of like eating in the middle of the road.  Other  people continued to come out of the gorge with a dazed look shaking water off and walked around the four.

After lunch, Joyce brought up the spectacular views at the Hut.  Once the other three heard “Spectacular Views, they knew that they were going to the hut.  Joyce finds the words “Spectacular Views” irresistible.  ( The other three beg of you, don’t use those words describing anything to Joyce).  So off they went to the hut perhaps not as happily as 3 hours ago but nevertheless off again.  It was also uphill the whole dang way.  You will notice fewer pictures were taken on this portion.  After 1.5 hours, they reached the hut which served food and had a view.  Debbie sat down at the cafe and dared anyone to tell her that they were not eating there.  Everyone was properly supportive of the break.  Total time elapsed one way 4.5 hours.

By now it was 2:30 in the afternoon, so they decided that they needed to start back.  Back it was to the gorge and then down.  The group did discover a shorter path back to the car.  Unfortunately, they also discovered the Slip and Slide.  Thus began the contest of “Last Person Standing”.  As Jerry was leading the group down the clay and gravel road, he suddenly began to flail, went down, bounced and rolled across the road.   (We are not kidding here.  Debbie was gobsmacked with her mouth hanging open as Jerry rolled across the trail). Bam! first man down!
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The other three started slipping and sliding but were able with their sticks to stay up.  Debbie decided to get off the road and make her way down through the grass.  Larry followed.  Suddenly, Larry went down and started shouting for Debbie to get out of the way as he was coming through.  Debbie stood there frozen, like a deer in the headlights, until Larry yelled that he couldn’t hold it anymore and was going to blow.  Miraculously, Debbie was able to dodge Larry as he slid by.  Bam!  Second Man down!

Debbie and Joyce were the only two still unscathed on the treacherous trail.  Debbie traversed over to a portion of the road with dirt steps held together by wooden frames.  Debbie announced to Joyce that these steps were just the thing to keep them standing.  As the words left Debbie’s lips, she began to  slowly and oh so gracefully to slide down until her butt was sitting on the wooden frames.  Bam! Third person down.  Joyce won the game of “Last Person Standing” as she ever so slowly crept down the trail.  The group was happy to report that none of the  three suffered any injuries except to their pride.  Jerry was awarded the most spectacular fall,, Larry most considerate fall and Debbie most graceful fall.

The rest of the descent was uneventful.  Total descent time 2 hours 45 minutes.  They think that they now qualify as “Serious Hikers”.

 

Joyce felt it was time to step up the group’s hiking game.  Unfortunately, Larry woke up not feeling 100% so opted to stay in for the day.  The remaining trio headed off to the cable car to ride to the top of the mountain and hike down.  How thoughtful of Joyce to have a hike down.  Isn’t that nice?

They purchased a one way ticket on the Alpspitzbahn from Garmisch.   The thought was that they would hike all the way down the mountain.  Off they went in a packed car.   As the cable car ascended, snow became more prevalent.  By the time that the car reached the top, the ground was snow covered.

Debbie:  “Are we hiking in the snow?”

Joyce:  “It would appear so.”

Debbie “Are we hiking in the snow?”

Joyce:  “Yes”

Debbie:  “Are we hiking down there?   It is all snow”  ( Debbie likes to keep questioning until you give an answer that she likes).

Joyce:  “Ye’s (Joyce finds it more effective to keep her answers short.)

Debbie was shocked.  Luckily, she is a bit paranoid about being cold while hiking so had brought almost all of her hiking clothes  plus a stylish sun hat – note:  sarcasm here about sun hat being stylish.

First task scramble up the icy and snowy path to the viewing platform for the prerequisite pictures.  Debbie discovered a secret path down involving steps and no snow so did not slide down the path in front of 100 tourists.

Off they go in military formation on the next training  event.  The three make their way down the first series of switchbacks and Joyce calls a halt.

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Debbie:  “What?”

Joyce:  “It might be too hard for us.  Let’s vote”.

Jerry:  “I vote yes”   (Debbie thinks – So Jerry is the one behind all of these hikes.  Joyce is just a puppet.)

Debbie:  “I vote yes.   It is too hard to walk back up the switchbacks in the snow.  At least if I fall, I will be sliding in the correct direction.”  (Debbie wonders if Larry is sleeping at the flat.)

The group continues down and figures out the best way to proceed.  They found it easier to walk in the new snow.  Everyone has some slipping and sliding but found the walking sticks were an asset.  Jerry had some more exciting moments as he didn’t have walking sticks.

They finally left the snow and arrived at the Kreuzeckbahn lift.  They were going to hike to the bottom but discovered that the hike was on a downward gravel road in the sun and not very interesting compared to the snow hike.  They purchased the needed one way ticket and rode the lift down.  Total hike time: 3.5 hours.

Final stop for the day was Eibsee Lake.    The hotel was hosting a Morgan car rally.  Trivia Moment: The Morgan Motor Company is a family-owned British motor car manufacturer that was founded in 1910.  Morgan has stated that they produce “in excess of 1300” cars per year, all assembled by hand. The waiting list for a car is approximately six months, although it has been as long as ten years in the past. .  Debbie noticed the owners are mostly white haired men with  blonde companions.  You also have to strap your luggage to the outside of the car.  Cultural Moment:  Eibsee is a lake in Bavaria, Eibsee lies at the base of the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest mountain.

The group returned feeling satisfied with the hike and happy that Joyce encouraged them to go.  Larry was feeling better but sad that he did not have snow experience.  Jerry  had time to walk to town to buy some walking sticks.

 

Today was a rainy day so everyone took the day off.  They walked to town, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, longest city name ever.  (Debbie can’t pronounce it so don’t ask her.  Ask Larry where he stayed.)  The group looked around and watched a double 18 wheeler try to go around a round about.  (Not possible).  Joyce bought a bakery treat for everyone.  (Joyce was team building with the hiking team).  They stumbled on the Garmisch-Partenkirchen, St. Martin Church.  It was a very impressive church for such a small city.

In the afternoon, Debbie and Joyce drove to Oberammergau to shop at Christmas stores.  It is a quaint town that specialized in wood working.  They walked around and visited shops.  Debbie contributed to the local economy in a big way.  Joyce and Debbie got slightly lost.  (It is possible to get just a little bit lost).  They found the city church in Oberammergau, St. Peter and Paul.  They returned to find Jerry and Larry binge watching Netflix.
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It is often difficult to get a ticket to the Schloss Neuschwanstein, another Ludwig castle.   This is the castle that Sleeping Beauty’s castle is based on.   To be certain that the group had tickets, Joyce had made reservations for the 19th.  Unfortunately, it was raining and cold.   There is also another castle at the same location, Schloss Hohenschwangau.

History Moment:  Schloss Hohenschwangau  is a 19th-century palace in southern Germany. It was the childhood residence of King Ludwig II of Bavaria and was built by his father, King Maximilian II of Bavaria. (Debbie thinks that you could call this a Ludwig castle. ).  The group huffed their way up to the top of the castle and tried to huddle under the overhang from the roof until their tour. (Perhaps Joyce was training her group for this at the gorge.)  Once the tour started, the tour guide told everyone no pictures but that he didn’t really agree with that policy but what can you do?  This seemed to confuse some people that continued to take pictures. .  The tour guide released his anxiety by continually whistling.  It was all very strange.  But what can you do?

Next on the tour was Schloss Neuschwanstein.  The palace was commissioned by Ludwig II of Bavaria as a retreat and as a homage to Richard Wagner.  Yep, Ludwig was a little odd.  He really like Richard Wagner and created rooms based on his operas.  He was a major sponsor of Richard Wagner.  Ludwig also flipped his days and nights.  The staff had to work nights and had couches for naps during the night.   If completed, the castle would have had 200 rooms.  Only 15 were completed before he died.  You could see this castle from his childhood home.  This is sort of like building a bigger and better house right outside your parent’s house.

After the tour, the group hiked to a bridge for better pictures.  (Debbie blames Erika for this hike.  Erika showed pictures to Joyce the day before.  Debbie believes that the hike was straight up but will concede that it was a good photo opportunity.)

Let’s talk about some suggestions for people visiting the castle that might be helpful.

• Why the heck would you wear high heels to climb those hills?  Flats, people think about flats.
• Don’t tilt your umbrella when passing someone.  You could dump water on them and they won’t like it.  You will get a stink eye and it will be your own fault.
• Don’t try to scramble up a hill off the path.  We don’t want to stop you from sliding down the hill.
• Don’t open your umbrella on a bridge or people might try to throw it off.
• Don’t touch things on the tour and knock on the wood furniture like you are going to purchase it.  We know if you could afford to buy it that you wouldn’t be on the tour with us.
• Don’t ever try to cut in the toilet line.
• Take some change for the toilet.  (We think they are trying to raise money to finish the castle).

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After last year’s European trip, all four had agreed that they would like some hiking mixed in with the touring of cities.  So now that they were in the German Alps, it was time for a test hike.

After discussion with the tourist information office, Joyce chose the Partnach Gorge as the initial hike.  It was not too far from the flat in case someone chickened out, involved water (a Joyce favorite), good views, weather didn’t matter and a relatively easy hike.  (See, we do have parameters and objectives?).

The hike started from the 1936 Olympic stadium.  It was here that Debbie learned the hard lesson of reading the words above the pay toilets.  They are not all just toilets.  She purchased urinal visits for two Russian men.  (They did not offer to pay her back).

Nature Moment:  The Partnach Gorge has rapids, waterfalls and ponds.  It was declared a national monument in 1912.  The name means passageway and watercourse.  The length of the gorge is 699 meters and it has tunnels of 247 meters.

The hike started with the required 20 to 30 minute walk to get to the attraction.  Once again it was raining and umbrellas were used.  The group did see sheep wearing bells.  (Would those be sheep bells?)  They must be fed by tourists as the sheep ran along beside the tourists ringing their bells.

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Once the end of the gorge was reached they picnicked and prepared for the easy path back.  Just one problem, they could not determine the path to take.  Soooo, they turned around and went back through the gorge again maybe with a little less enthusiasm the second time.  It was still impressive but they took fewer pictures.

Joyce gave the group a passing grade for the test hike.  As a reward that night, they met Erika and her friend, Catherine for dinner close to the monastery.   Debbie continued with her run of bad choices choosing what she thought was pot roast.  (Do you ever stare dumbly at a plate thinking  I didn’t order this?  I couldn’t possibly have order this.).  Erika made the best choice with what else?  Schnitzel!

 

Off to another Ludwig castle in the rain.  (Is there any other way to see a castle?)  History Moment:  Linderhof Palace is a Schloss (Castle)  in Germany, in southwest Bavaria. It is the smallest of the three palaces built by King Ludwig II of Bavaria and the only one which he lived to see completed.   All of the castles are not easy to access from a car.   (Of course, there are a million bus people). Most castle visits involve a 20 minute or so walk.   Ludwig had the palace built on the Versailles theme (remember he loved Louis XIV?).  Only 4 rooms have a defined function in the Linderhof Palace.  The rooms are the Hall of Mirrors, audience room, bedroom and dining room.  (Debbie is not sure what he did with the other rooms).  This tour required standing outside in the rain to wait for the tour.  It was an interesting tour – still no pictures!  Ludwig also had extensive gardens.  He liked to be rowed in his golden swan boat to a blue grotto.  The group was all set for the swan boat but found out the grotto is closed for repair for 5 years.

Next stop was the Ettal Abbey.  This is a  Benedictine monastery in the village of Ettal. With a community of more than 50 monks,  the Abbey is one of the largest Benedictine houses.   The monastery runs a brewery, a distillery, a bookstore, an art publishing house, a hotel, a cheese factory joint venture, and several smaller companies. The distillery produces Ettaler Kloster Liqueur, a herbal liqueur which comes in sweeter yellow and more herbal green varieties. The wine club claimed this as a field trip.  (Debbie pointed out that this was not wine but the wine club (WC) said that they were considering branching out to beers.)  There was also an incident where Debbie wandered into the monastery instead of the book store.  Let’s just say those monks were not all that friendly.  Other members of her party do not understand how this happened and wondered if she partook of the distillery products?
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Today was an exciting day for the group and Germany.  They picked up a car.  No more trains for this group.  No, they are now independent.  While they are independent, there was some adjustment issues.  The car agent was surprised to have 4 wet American tourists and their assorted bags show up in her office at 8:00 AM.  It is not a big office and off the beaten path.  It took them 20 minutes to get the bags stuffed in the car and two calls to the agent to come outside and show them how to do something all in the pouring rain.  The group is pretty sure that the agent went home that night and said something to the effect “You are never going to believe who rented a car from me today”.  Eventually, they were off in their BMW sports wagon for their next destination with not one but two navigation systems guiding them.  Ida is the insistent American portable GPS with a rather insistent voice that likes to shout out “Recalculating” and take us through towns.  Helga is the BMW included GPS with a calm British accent that takes a more direct route.

Joyce had planned an introduction to castles on the way to the next stop.  The first castle was one of King Ludwig II’s castles, Herrenchiemsee.

History Moment: Ludwig the II was King of Bavaria from 1864 until his death in 1886. He is sometimes called the Swan King, Mad King Ludwig or der Märchenkönig (the ‘Fairy Tale King’). He succeeded to the throne at age 18.  Bavaria became part of the new German Empire led by Prussia.  Ludwig increasingly withdrew from day-to-day affairs of state in favor of extravagant artistic and architectural projects.  Ludwig spent all his royal revenues (although not state funds) on these projects, borrowed extensively, and defied all attempts by his ministers to restrain him. This extravagance was used against him to declare him insane, an accusation which has since come under review.  (More than you wanted to know?)

The only way to get to Herrenchiemsee was via boat.  (Debbie almost had an incident on the boat as a lady cut  the bathroom line – Debbie delivered a stunning stink eye as she stomped back to her seat).  Once to the island, there was a 20 minute walk in the rain.  (Debbie pointed out that they could have taken a covered wagon, if they weren’t so cheap.  Joyce pointed out that walking provides better views.)  Once they arrived at the palace, the line for the tour was also outside in the rain.

Ludwig admired the Sun King, Louis XIV of France.  Herrenchiemsee was in honor of the Sun King.  Ludwig called himself the Moon King.  Anyway, the rooms that were finished before he ran out of money were over the top.  The palace was even more extravagant than Versailles.

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By the way, Helga, the GPS, was abandoned.  Joyce says that she likes Ida better.  (Debbie just thinks that they have a working relationship and that Ida will yell at Joyce.  Joyce knows who is going home with her.)

 

 

The final day in Salzburg began with a bus trip.  The group was all settled in for a 30 minute ride when an early stop brought a sea of adolescents on the bus.  They were surrounded by junior high hormones, shouting, flirting and the smell of too much perfume/cologne.   The passengers were thumped with backpacks and bumped by teenagers cramming into the bus.  (Debbie was concerned that she would reek of cheap cologne when she got off the bus). It was overwhelming. Joyce was convinced that they were going to get off the bus at the group’s destination.  Luckily, when the four exited at Hellbrunn Palace, the teenagers did not.

History Moment – Hellbrunn Palace – The Prince-Archbishop Markus Sittikus decided he needed a lavish palace with a big garden for pleasure.  Old Markus was a real trickster and liked his trick fountains.

The four went on an English tour with a tour guide who was also a trickster.  Markus designed trick fountains to play jokes on his guests.  Our guide was considerate most of the time but Larry did see the guide turn a fountain on one guest that got the guest’s pants pretty wet.  The guest said some words that made the air turn blue and spent the rest of the visit far away from any potential dousing.  She also gave the guide an impressive stink eye (maybe even a Debbie level stinkeye).  After this incident, the guide was not quite so frisky with the water.   Just to be safe the group refused to stand in any wet spots while completing the tour. (12.50).

Joyce hustled everyone back on the city bus for a ride in the country to the Cable car Untersberg.   The car took them to the top of Mt. Untersberg which is 1853 meters above sea level.  (They have no idea how tall this really was as the whole feet / meter thing has no real reference but it provided some great views.  At the top, they ate probably the worst lunch that Debbie has had on the trip.  (Debbie has decided this was a sign not to stray from schnitzel.  After the meal, the four hiked a little further and then abandoned this idea when they realized that they were huddling behind a rock hiding from the wind.  (23.40 Euro for the cable car).
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Joyce suggested that they visit the zoo since they had tickets and it was on the way.  They went to the zoo and walked around until Joyce decided that they could make the boat tour (remember Les Cheap girls).  Zoo savings 11.50 and boat tour 15.00 Euro.  They rushed off for the boat ride.  At the end of the ride, the captain did a waltz with the boat.  (Debbie thought it was impressive but felt that there was too much rocking and rolling on the boat and the captain looked a little young.  Debbie is unsure that her boss knew about all of this turning and making some people turn green).

Total savings for the Salsburg Card 74.40 euro per person.   Les Cheap Girls Rule!!!  So what if they went to the zoo and took a waltzing boat ride… The group had ice cream to toast their savings and ate at a Chinese restaurant to make up for the lunch.