Month: September 2016

On the last full day in Paris, the group went for a walk in Jardin Botanique de Paris. This is  collection of four botanical gardens maintained by the city of Paris.    They spent time in several hot houses and strolled through the neighborhoods.

At lunch time, Debbie felt that Greg may have fallen under the charm of a waitress.  She was an older lady that lured him into a restaurant by answering “No Problem, no problem” to any question or statement along with a smile and frantic head nodding.  Debbie asked if vegetable soup was available and pointed to the soups.  The waitress said “Sure, no problem – Vegetables”  with violent head nodding.  Everyone’s meal came except for Debbie’s but the waitress looked at her and said “Vegetables!”.  Eventually “The Vegetables” arrived.   According the eye witnesses, Debbie’s mouth fell open and she half rose out of her seat saying “this is not soup!”.  “Yes” replied the waitress ” No problem, vegetable, No Soup! Not Winter no soup”.  Debbie wished that these revelations had occurred before she got the food and perhaps the waitress had looked at what Debbie was pointing to on the menu.  Debbie ‘s vegetable soup was a plate with buttered noodles, rice, spinach and green beans.   (Really? Spinach and green beans? Technically, noodles and rice are not vegetables). Joyce took pity on Debbie and traded her some spinach for potatoes.

Debbie was awarded the Adventure Award for the day through no fault of her own.  Debbie consoled herself  by buying a chocolate croissant on the way home.
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The rest of the day was spent walking the city, returning the flat back to it’s original state and a frenzy of packing.

Everyone felt that they were beginning to fit into the French culture.  (The French did not) and decided to go back to Moufftard Market for some leisurely shopping.  It was also the last day of the Metro Pass  and Les Cheap Girls (Our readers have helped get the correct tense) wanted to get full value.  Off they went with clear weather to the Metro.  When they came up from the underground Metro, it was raining.   So much for leisurely shopping.

Greg, ever on the search for a good restaurant, chose Cave La Bourgogne.  The food was fantastic waiters  understood everything that the group said (must be that fitting into the French culture).  Debbie went our of her comfort zone and ordered a cassoulet.  (She pretended that this was a casserole  – remember that she makes things up).  Greg and Don  jumped on the cassoulet bandwagon while Joyce and Jerry, ever adventurous, tried the duck.  Larry decided he needed to cut back and ordered a salad.  The food was great and the service even better.   Greg, our resident food critic, agreed with the thumbs up.

By the time lunch was over, the rain had let up some.  We watched couples dancing in the street to an accordion.  We are not kidding.  Debbie said that she and Larry could take this up as a new hobby.  Larry said that he is not sure that he has the wardrobe for it.  The others refused to comment.

The next stop was the Museum National D’Histoire Naturelle (Museum of Natural History).  The wandered through a park, Jardin des Plantes, searching for the building. It was still lightly raining.  Please note that Larry used his hat for the rain but the other two hat guys forgot to bring their hats.  Larry seems to be the more advanced hat guy of the Les Hat Guys.

The group searched the park identifying many buildings as possibilities (wrong, wrong and wrong) until they found the correct building.  A special talent of the group is to come in the back way to any location.  Upon entering the museum, they gave the guards fits as they would not queue correctly.  (Who would have thought the French would have been so sensitive?)  After they finally queued up correctly, they noticed that all the information employees had left and that there were no English translations.  Debbie suspected that once the queuing incident occurred that they hid because it was fully staffed when the group exited. (They tried to make up by waving at everyone when we left but we know).
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The museum was nice but all in French with no translations. (They felt certain the information desk had the information if they would just come out of hiding).  Joyce had to explain to Debbie that it kept getting light then dark to replicate day to night. Debbie was concerned that the lights were going out.  Take a look at some of the pictures – it is definitely off the beaten track.  You can also visit the zoo nearby for 21 Euro per person.  Les Cheap Girls almost fainted seeing the zoo ticket price.

The rain had stopped after the visit.  The group stopped at the bakery on the walk back to console themselves with baked good for the last weekly pass Metro ride.  Then, the farewell ride.

Debbie awards herself the adventure award. (She knows that Greg and Don ate the same thing but disqualified Greg because he eats strange things all the time and Don rode home with stinky cheese that he kept asking “Does anyone smell something?” (If you can’t figure out the cheese that you are carrying smells, you can’t be awarded the Adventure Award for the day.  Tough luck Don.)

After the victorious Notre Dame climb, the group traveled to the Pompidou area for lunch.  It is a nice neighborhood and a prime place for people watching.  It also has plenty of shops to visit.  Greg, Larry, and Don disappeared for a long time into a shop.  When they reappeared, the hat had made a triumphant return in triplicate.  Le Hat Boys were born.  It was explained that the hats were the perfect head covering for potential rain days and that they thought it made them look quite debonair.   (On a side note, Jerry was not too upset about the lack of a hat – remember he has a $1.00 store raincoat).
Next stop was lunch.  Jerry decided to take the steak tartar plunge (maybe he was more upset about the hat than everyone thought).   Joyce continued with her duck tour across Paris.  The restaurant was very busy and service was someone sporadic (This is being really, really nice).  The sequence of events were as follows:

• Soup was served to Joyce and Larry
• Greg and Don served lunch
• Joyce and Jerry served lunch
• Greg and Don finished lunch
• (Notice anyone missing here?)
• Larry volunteered to cancel his and Debbie’s meal because he could get by on  soup
• Debbie gives Larry the stink-eye
• Larry decided not to cancel order (Plus the whole French/English explanation would be difficult)
• Jerry finished lunch
• Joyce asked where Debbie and Larry’s lunch might be
• Waiter picked up Larry’s soup dish and turned in order
• Jerry finished lunch
• Joyce took time eating
• Waiter avoided table
• Waiter brought Debbie and Larry’s lunch
• Waiter said that their order took awhile
• Debbie gobbled down her lunch
• Everyone finished lunch

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After the long, long lunch, the group strolled to the Pompidou Center, a modern area museum among other things.  (Retail Value: 8 Euro).  It had some interesting areas. The nearby Stravinsky Fountain  features sixteen whimsical moving and water-spraying sculptures  which represent themes and works by composer Igor Stravinsky. The Place in front of the museum is noted for the presence of street performers.  (Artistic review – Modern art is not for everyone).

The group split into two different groups.  (Debbie suspects because she was advocating for another church visit.)  Jerry, Joyce, Larry and Debbie stopped at Eglise-St-Eustache.  History Moment: The present building was built between 1532 and 1632.  St Eustache’s is considered a masterpiece of late Gothic architecture. The church’s reputation was strong enough to be chosen as the location for a young Louis XIV to receive communion. Mozart also chose the sanctuary as the location for his mother’s funeral.  While visiting the church, a baptism was in progress with beautiful singing.

On the final day of the museum pass, the total value used was 125.50 Euro.  Total savings: 51.50 Euro.

Les Cheap Girls discovered that the museum pass included access to the North Tower of Notre Dame.  (8.5 Euro).  This entitled the ticket owner to hike up 400 steps to the top of Notre Dame.  They were thrilled as they had already walked up 284 steps to the top of the Arc.  An additional 116 steps is nothing.  (Turns out that they were wrong).

The day dawned bright and Debbie interviewed potential participants for her blog.  She was disappointed with some of their responses and had to edit heavily.  Please see the edited interviews below:

Debbie:  Larry, Jerry and Greg are you going to climb the Tower today?

Jerry, Larry and Greg:  There is no way that I am doing that many stairs.  You people are crazy.   No, we just don’t feel that we would be successful.  I think it is wonderful if anyone can climb 400 steps.  Those people are awesome.

Debbie:  Tell me Joyce and Don how do you feel?  Are you nervous?

Joyce:  I am a little nervous but think I can do it.

Don:  I can’t decide whether to go up 2 steps at a time or run up the stairs.

Debbie:  What will you guys be doing while the others climb the Tower?

Greg:  Drinking Coffee

Larry:  Sitting down and drinking coffee

Jerry:  Staying with them, sitting down and drinking coffee

Larry, Greg, Jerry:  We will be ready with refreshments for the climbers and a camera to record this momentous event.  We only wish that we were up to the climb.
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Debbie:  Any last comments?

Joyce:  Team Luxembourg rising from the ashes.

Debbie:  Go Team Luxembourg!

Don:  I love being on Team Luxembourg.  I am sorry that I ever considered quitting.

The Les Cheap Girls hustled everyone out the door to stand in line.  Only 20 people are let in every 10 minutes so that climbers are staggered.  Did you know that there is such a thing as “Skip the Line” tours?  Les Cheap Girls refused this idea as an insult to their cheapness.  Regardless, Team Luxembourg was ecstatic to be in position 18, 19 and 20.  (Maybe not Don but Joyce and Debbie immediately snapped to the concept of no one behind them for 10 minutes).  So they took pictures, stopped when they got tired and so what if they lost sight of the others?

Eventually, they arrived at the viewing platform.  It was single file, one way around the platform.  This made for some interesting dances as people tried to pass.  (Okay, Joyce and Debbie might have been going the wrong way part of the time).  It had great views and allowed you to get up close with gargoyles.

The three followed a tour group into the bell tower.   The group stood under the bells.  The security guard sat in what looked like a sound proof plexi-glass cage.  Don posed Joyce and Debbie under the bells for pictures.  This made Debbie a little nervous as it was time for the bells to ring and she was not in a plexi-glass cube.  (She can be a little skittish after the alarm incident).  The bells did ring but in another part of the church.

Team Luxembourg was feeling quite cocky about their success until the guard told them to line up to go to the roof.  (They thought they were at the top).  Guess who was in position 1, 2, and 3.  No playing around this time with the line behind them.  It was more than 100 circular steps.  Joyce said that she was at the point of telling people just to step over her as she lay on the steps.  Luckily, she saw the light at the top and powered through.  Happily, they reached the summit.

The way down to their admiring supporters was a breeze.  (There were no refreshments).

New YTD Retail value: 117.50 Euro

It would be remiss if the group did not mention security in Paris.  There is definitely increased security with police and the military roaming with automatic weapons that guard monuments and streets.  As you go into a monument or museum, there is security, wanding and sometimes x-rays.  All purses are searched although not  thoroughly.  One portion of the purse is unzipped so that security can look inside.  Large department stores also wand and search purses.

The group saw more police action in the last 2 weeks than the last year at home.  We saw streets blocked, van loads of military personnel, and lots of patrols.  Although there is a big police / military presence, we never felt in danger.  There were definitely fewer tourists and shorter lines.  We still recommend that people visit.

As far as tourist safety/crime, the group did experience a couple of attempts. There are certain Metro stops where warning messages about pickpockets are made in multiple languages.  Both, Larry and Greg, had their back pockets patted down (not by security but friendly pick pockets).  One at the Eiffel Tower and the other on the crowded Metro.  Jerry, Joyce and Debbie maintained that it is because they look like “Easy pickings”.  Larry and Greg insist that it is because they are the most security conscience.  (You know they both have pocket knives.)

Don’s incident fell into his own category.  He had the most harrowing experience of the group.  Don and Greg had been to the Eiffel Tower at night (No doubt they were jealous of the stunning pictures that the others had taken.)  They were returning via the Metro stop, Bir-Hakeim.  This is a poorly lit stop with construction in the surrounding area.  To enter at station, one scans a Metro badge, walks through a chute and the gate opens if a successful scan.  People queue up behind each other in the chute.  Greg went through the gate (remember he normally leads).  Don followed but the scan was unsuccessful.  He was mobbed by teenage boys trying to grab his shoulder bag.  Luckily, Don was able to hold them off while Greg got the gate open.  As the boys left, they threw another man’s wallet through the gate.  The man didn’t even know that he had lost the wallet until it flew over the gate.  (Hooray for Don!).

In summary, did we feel safe?  Yes.

Our advice to you:

• Be aware of your surroundings
• Don’t carry all your valuables with you especially in high traffic areas.
• Don’t use Bir-Hakeim as an entrance or exit at night

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Would we go to Paris again?  Absolutely

The Les Cheap Girls liked Fountainbleau so much that they decided to go to Versailles again.  They decided that they could brave the lines.  (It was on the museum pass after all) .

Don and Greg decided to visit Giverny.  History Moment:  It’s known as the place where painter Claude Monet lived and worked from 1883 until his death in 1926. The artist’s former home and elaborate gardens, where he produced his famed water lily series..  (Not on the pass –  shocking disregard for the pass value).  Did you know that the train is cheaper the earlier you go?  This little know fact inspired Don and Greg to begrudgingly catch the early  train.  There was much coffee drinking and mumbling as they left.

The trip to Versailles was uneventful.  Debbie believes because people had time to prepare.  (Just saying). Shockingly, there were no lines at Versailles even the toilets.  Retail Cost:  18 Euro  History Moment:  A royal château in Versailles.  Here is Debbie’s version.  Louie XVI and Marie Antoinette spent too much money, people got mad and overthrew the king.  Also World War I Treaty of Versailles was signed where?  You guessed it Versailles.

After the chateau tour, the cheap girls actually sprang for the fee for the garden entrance.  (What is happening?)    During the tour of the chateau and garden, other people began to annoy Debbie.  She felt that there was a general disrespect for history with all the ridiculous poses, selfies and selfie sticks that the tourists were using and the complete unawareness of anyone else around them.  Debbie made it her mission to photo bomb as many shots as possible that day.  (Bet you didn’t think they knew what photo bombing was did you?)   She also enlisted Larry who helped unknowingly but willing. Debbie and Larry’s smiling faces now reside in many photographs.  Some of the tourists were challenged in other ways.  One foreign tourist had the villa’s audio guide  around her neck (Let’s call her Betty).  As Betty exited the chateau, the video guide alarm similar to an ambulance siren went off and kept going off as Betty walked and boarded the bus.  The alarm finally died as Betty entered the bus.

It was a lovely day as they walked through the garden to the Grand Trianon and Petit Traianon.  They enjoyed the fountains, canals, and photo bombing.  Debbie also caught Joyce walking on the grass (there were pictures of feet with a circle through ignored by Joyce.  (Debbie was most distressed).  Once again, the group walked the longest possible route to get to where they were going with Debbie gathering chestnuts to throw at other participants to speed them up.  At the beginning of the return, Debbie was ready to trot back up to the garden/chateau.   Joyce not so much.  Joyce  wanted to pay to take a train back.  Debbie was shocked.  She thought that the ghost of Maria Antoinette had somehow possessed Joyce causing extravagant spending.   In the face of ghost royalty and peer pressure, Debbie broke down and spent the 4 euro. She was actually quite happy when the train went all the way to the chateau and thought Joyce’s idea was well founded.  Maybe Joyce Antoinette knew what she was talking about.

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This was Art Day for the group.  The six started out together at the Musee De L’Orangerie. (Retail Value:  7.50 Euro)  History Moment:  In the 1920s, France arranged for two oval-shaped rooms to be built at the Musee de l’Orangerie to house eight big murals of Monet’s “Water Lilies” series which Monet had said he would donate to the French state. Monet provided the specifications for the rooms that should hold the paintings, and opened in 1927. Thus began the Musee de l’Orangerie.  An interesting side-note, the Musee de l’Orangerie was originally what was known as an “orangery”.  An “orangery” was somewhat like a greenhouse and many wealthy families had them near their palaces; the name stems from the time when citrus trees would be kept under cover during the winter in order to protect the delicate plants.  The museum contains works by Renoir, Cézanne, Gauguin, Monet, Sisley, Picasso, and Matisse.  (Retail value: 7.50 Euro).  After the touring the museum, the group split with Don and Greg headed to the Museum Orsay.

The other four headed to the Louvre. (Retail Value:  15 Euro)  History Moment:  The Louvre is the world’s largest museum and a historic monument in Paris, France.  The foursome took their time wandering through the Tuileries Garden to the back entrance of the Louvre.  They were able to walk right in with no lines.  They picked up their English language maps and stood in the middle of the flow of people (similar to standing in the middle of a river) to get their bearings.  They decided to head for the Mona Lisa.  Joyce turned to Debbie and said “You can lead us.”  Debbie wants to point out that this was really a bad choice on Joyce’s part.  Debbie likes to study the maps intently and look things up on the internet.  Debbie was unprepared. (Did you know there is an interactive map of the Louvre if you are prepared)  There are three wings in the Louvre.  The wings are Sully, Richelieu and Denon.  Debbie believes the maps are flawed.  Who puts the same wing on the same page?   Greg had already been and said that their were signs everywhere pointing to the Mona Lisa, etc.  Well, there are not if you are in the wrong wing.  Just saying.  Debbie mistakenly believed that the Mona Lisa was in the Richelieu wing.  So, she led them around for an hour in the wrong wing. (If you are looking for a wing without a lot of people try Richelieu).  About half way through, Debbie realized that she had a walk through podcast of the Louvre.  (Doesn’t include Richelieu).  With Joyce and a museum guards help, the group eventually found the Mona Lisa and saw some other great art along the way.

By now, it was well past lunch time and the group was looking for lunch.  As they searched for a restaurant, Joyce and Larry suddenly perked up.  They had spotted  Higuma Restaurant.  Jerry and Debbie knew the choice was made.  They had held out a whole week without going to an Asian restaurant.  It was an opportunity for Debbie to win the “Adventure Award” but she did not.

After lunch, Joyce felt so good that she suggested that we walk home.  Debbie and Larry always ready for more steps agreed.  In hindsight, this might have been a mistake.  Walking home involved a prolonged rest at the park and a total walked of over 7 miles.

Total value YTD Museum Pass:  94 Euro – Les Cheap Girls are happy!
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The group decided to visit one of the chateaus on the museum pass  The Chateau de Fontainebleau is one of the sites listed on the museum and had good reviews.  Retail cost:  11 Euro  History Moment:  Fontainebleau is a town southeast of Paris, known for the opulent Fontainebleau Palace. Built by French royalty, with parts dating back to the 1100s, the palace houses Marie Antoinette’s Turkish boudoir, the Napoleon Museum and a lavish theater. Its formal gardens feature ornamental lakes and sculptures. Surrounding the town and chateau is Fontainebleau forest.

Greg had been acting as the navigation officer (He was the first to bite the data roaming bullet).   In this role, Greg was sometimes subjected to intense questioning by other members of the group and he was not sure how he felt about leading them like a Mother Duck with ducklings straggling  behind.  (Quacking – Where are we going?  What is the stop?  Where is (Insert name?)).    Joyce and Debbie took pity on Greg and researched the route to Fontainebleau.  It required a bus ride, Metro Ride, and a TRAIN RIDE.  They researched and planned that sucker like it was a military campaign.  They knew what train to take, how to read the signs, how to find platform A or B,  yellow or blue gates and how to find the gate number of letter.

The group marched through the train station like a well executed machine.  They were so early that Don and Greg went for a snack while everyone else went in search of toilets.  The toilet search involved a long walk to another platform and .80 cent payment per person.  (Debbie had to fund Larry.  He has since been issued his own change.)  There was also an incident where Debbie ended up flashing the train station because the lock did not work.  Debbie personally felt that she should have been given a refund but felt that arguing this point in a foreign language would not bode well plus would mess up the well oiled machine.  Everyone made it back to the rendezvous point to board on time.

Some of the more interesting highlights of the Chateau were:

• The Pope’s Apartment – It sounds nice and friendly but actually the Pope was held prisoner
• Napoleon I Museum –  They have the Napoleon coat and 3 cornered hat
• The Great Apartments – Napoleon and his wife’s apartment including the room where he abdicated.  (This is also where Debbie started figuring out that Josephine got dumped because his wife’s name was Archduchess Marie Louise of Austria not Josephine).  Some rooms designed by Maria Antoinette (never got to use them as she went to La Conciergerie)
• The Gardens – Lots of room to walk

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The group went to Montebello’s Steak House for lunch just outside the chateau.  During this trip, Debbie decided to award the Adventure Award. This is the award for going outside one’s comfort zone and be adventurous.   Our first award goes to Joyce for ordering steak tartar with a raw egg on top.  The waitress asked two times if we knew what it was and if Joyce was sure.  Congratulations to our winner.  (Note: Joyce said that she will not order again.  2nd Note:  Debbie will never win this award for steak tartar).

The Chateau was given a high rating with small crowds.  Well worth the trip.

Total YTD Museum Pass value:  71.5 Euro

A lot of research has been done for this trip.  Everything that was read suggested that Sainte-Chapelle was crowded with long lines.  The best approach was to arrive early and be there at opening at 9:30.  As the group rounded the corner at 9:00, they saw a long line 6 to 10 people across snaking down half a block.   It appeared that the research was correct and it would be a long morning.  They even had guards with guns holding the lines back and sometimes lawyer looking people came out and dragged someone out of line into the building.  (Seems a bit extreme).  Greg, our interpreter extraordinaire , explained that we were in the Department of Justice line for court and not Sainte-Chapelle. The church is surrounded by government buildings that use the same entry for tourist and people called to court. Once in the correct line, Joyce was ecstatic that the group was number one in line.  (There was a woman that tried to sneak up to first position but through stink eyes and proper body blocking the threat was averted.  The group also believes that the man who sets up the ropes for the lines does not enjoy his job and should consider seeking employment elsewhere). Retail Price:  10 Euro  History Moment:  Built in seven years, an impressive feat, the Sainte Chapelle was intended to house precious Christian relics, including Christ’s crown of thorns, acquired by Saint Louis.

Crypte Archeologique was next on the list.  Retail Cost:  5 Euros History Moment:  A display of ancient, Medieval & more recent remains found under Notre Dame during renovations.

The Conciergerie is a few minutes walk from Sainte-Chapelle and Notre Dame.  Now here is where Debbie got confused.  A definition of a concierge is a person who is employed to someone who is employed  to help guests arrange things.    Retail Price 8.50 Euro.  History Moment:  (Are you skipping these?  Debbie may ask you about them – Don’t cheat).  A medieval royal palace that became a revolutionary tribunal and Marie-Antoinette’s prison until she was executed.  Debbie will never think of a concierge in the same way again.  What exactly did they arrange for these prisoners?  A trip to the guillotine?

At this point, Don and Greg, left the group as they did not want to proceed to the Pantheon.  The other’s made a quick stop at the Creperie Genia.  At least, as quick as you can be in Paris.

History Moment:  In 1744, Louis XV recovered from a serious illness from which he said he was cured by invoking Saint Genevieve.  Louis XV built a monument dedicated a to Genevieve.  In 1791, the monument was transformed into the National Pantheon.  Famous French citizens are buried in the Pantheon. It is a spacious building with plenty of seats to rest tired feet.  Some of the famous citizens buried are Victor Hugo, Pierre and Madame Curie.  Retail Cost: 7 Euro

The next stop was the Musee de l’Armee (Retail value 11 Euro) – History Moment:  This is the Museum of French Military History and the Tomb of Napoleon.  The military history is interesting and goes through World War II.  The group walked around for awhile and were ready to visit Napoleon’s Tomb. At this point, the nightmare occurred.  Debbie dropped her camera on the cement floor.  Yes, you read it correctly.  She dropped her camera and she did this in front of everyone.  No need for a stage – just drop the camera.  After the shock wore off, Debbie picked it up and turned it on.   She is sorry to report that the camera no longer focuses and is out of service.   Debbie went into deep mourning and depression.  The group continued on to Napoleon’s tomb.  At the tomb, Debbie starts to understand that her whole concept of Napoleon and Josephine was all wrong.  She thought Josephine was buried in the tomb.  It was really his brother, Joseph.  Here is a little test of your knowledge.

• Was either married before they met? Yes, Josephine was and she was separated from her husband then he died.
• Did Napoleon and Josephine get divorced?  Yes, they did.  (What?  I thought they were the big love story!  This explain why it was Joseph buried in the tomb not Josephine)
• Why did he divorce her?  Because she could not produce an heir and Napoleon had a child with his mistress so felt it was Josephine’s fault. (Again, what???)
• Did she have any children?  Yes, two with her former husband
• Did one or more have affairs while married?  Yes, they both did.  (What? What?   Again what happened to the love affair?)
• Napoleon was Catholic.  How did he get a divorce?  The official who conducted the marriage it was not entitled to do so, the officer who witnessed Napoleon’s signature was too young, the bride reduced her age by four years to 29 and the groom gave a false address and date of birth.  (How many times, can Debbie say what?)

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Total Pass saving year to date: 60.5 Euro.  The La Cheap Girls are feeling good!